Antonio D’Anna quoted Bret Easton Ellis’s seminal novel 'American Psycho' in his show notes.

Fortuitously for D’Anna, who is now in his third season at the label, the ’80s are in the air again. That could work in his favor as he tries to revive interest in designer Mariuccia Mandelli’s codes. Among them were sculptured shoulders, blouson shapes, pleats, and animal intarsias. D’Anna touched on all of those signatures and more, too. Mandelli had a penchant for unusual materials; here, that manifested as stiff-looking black eel-skin suiting and, weirder still, a puffer coat and track pants in bulky lamb fur.

N. Phelps, Vogue Runway