Rossella Jardini, part of the Milan establishment, is back in startup mode. The former creative director of Moschino launched an eponymous collection last February. Season two, shown at the Grand Hotel et de Milan today, was about sharpening the label's focus.

Jardini name-checked Giorgio di Sant'Angelo as a reference point, and anybody who's been around long enough to remember his '70s glory days will see the through lines between his multicultural riffing and this gypsy chic offering. Jardini also mentioned another name backstage, lesser known outside of Rome. Fausto Delle Chiaie, an artist who exhibits on the street in that city, shared four sketches, which she turned into designs for the scarves the models wore in their hair and a ruffled silk dress. "Picasso half-price," she laughed. Delle Chiaie's work was another way she elevated the collection beyond familiar resortwear.

N. Phelps, Vogue Runway - REVIEW AND IMAGES HERE