This collection—as well as being very, very good—felt like a quietly but clearly articulated rebuke to the Instagram-serving move towards piled-on pseudo-rococo maximalism in contemporary fashion.
For Spring, Alessandro Dell’Acqua—no stranger to a whimsical decorative flourish—turned the froufrou very nearly down to zero, presenting a series of color stories: black, nude, orange-to-pink, burgundy, and then a bit of a mix dominated by green. Along the way he proposed a range of couture-ish shapes in technical fabrics countered by a series of casual/streetwear shapes in noble fabrics: Interestingly, it was sometimes hard to register where one became the other. There was nary a sneaker in sight—just traditional bunion-revealing plexiglass heels.